Tschabalala Self
Used milk paint alongside acrylic, Flashe, fabric, and gum in the 2018 painting Lite.
Paint Type
Milk Paint
Milk paint is a water-based coating traditionally made with milk protein, lime, and pigment. It is often sold as a powder that is mixed with water and dries to a matte, naturally varied finish.
Milk paint compatibility
Milk paint bonds readily to raw, porous wood and masonry, while sealed or previously painted surfaces generally need a bonding additive or compatible primer.
| Surface | Compatibility | Preparation | Primer or bonding | Finish | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood | Excellent on raw, unfinished wood | Remove dust, wax, grease, and incompatible finish; smooth rough areas as needed. | Usually unnecessary on porous raw wood; use the approved bonding additive or primer over a previous finish when needed. | Wax, oil, or another compatible topcoat can improve resistance to handling, moisture, and weather. | — |
| Plywood | Good when the face is sound, raw, and porous | Use dry plywood; remove contamination and smooth loose fibers, filled areas, and exposed edges. | Usually unnecessary on a porous unfinished face; test or use the approved bonding method over a factory or previous finish. | Protect exposed edges and surfaces according to handling and location. | — |
| Concrete | Good on cured, unsealed, porous concrete | Let new concrete cure, correct moisture problems, and remove dirt, deposits, grease, and loose material. | Usually unnecessary on sound porous concrete; sealed or previously coated concrete needs testing and product-specific bonding preparation. | Use a compatible protective finish when required by exposure or wear. | — |
| Brick | Good on sound, unsealed brick | Correct moisture problems and remove dirt, loose material, and efflorescence; let the brick dry fully. | Usually unnecessary on raw porous brick; sealed or coated brick requires testing and product-specific preparation. | Use a compatible protective finish for exterior exposure or frequent handling. | — |
| Plaster | Good on fully dry, porous plaster | Let new plaster cure and dry fully, then remove dust and loose material. | Usually unnecessary on raw porous plaster; previously painted plaster may need primer or a bonding additive. | Product-specific; add protection where the surface will face moisture or handling. | — |
| Drywall | Good with wall-specific preparation | Repair defects, let joint compound dry, sand smooth, and remove dust. | A compatible water-based primer may be needed for even absorption or over a previous finish. | Product-specific; protect walls according to the room and cleaning needs. | — |
| Stone | Good on suitable unsealed, porous stone | Identify the stone, resolve moisture issues, and remove contamination, deposits, and loose material. | Usually unnecessary on porous unsealed stone; test sealed or previously coated stone and use the approved bonding method. | Choose a compatible finish for moisture, weather, wear, and the desired appearance. | — |
Sources: Real Milk Paint application guidance, Real Milk Paint surface guidance, Real Milk Paint porous-surface guidance, and Old Fashioned Milk Paint product guidance.
Painters who used milk paint
Explore a painter in the PaintZeal reference who used milk paint in documented artwork.
Milk paint articles
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